I have been obsessed with Ireland since I was a little girl. I was always intrigued by my Irish heritage and have been longing to go visit my paternal homeland my whole life. Perhaps because I am mixed race, because I don't always feel as if I belong completely to one place or culture, I've always hoped that by learning more about both sides of my cultural heritage I would somehow learn more about myself and finally feel complete, like I wholly belonged. Though over the years I have learned that identity is shaped more by where you yourself grew up and your own experiences, traces of what came before have a way of informing the present--and how it does is what I want to discover.
The journey begins...in JAPAN. So, you may be scratching your head thinking, "wait...isn't Maura teaching English in Japan? Isn't that already like being on an extended vacation?" Haha ok, so I do currently live and work in Japan, and I love it, but I needed a little break and was originally planning to spend the holidays in Thailand with my Irish friend Stephanie. Unfortunately the political climate changed and our parents advised us not to go there this year...so we were trying to figure out a place to go and then one day Stephanie said something like "you wouldn't want to go to Ireland would you?" I remember stopping in the middle of the sidewalk and freaking out...was she serious? It was too good to be true!! It would be a DREAM come true!! So we changed plans and booked two tickets to Dublin. I couldn't stop smiling the whole two weeks before we left, I was just so giddy!!
at Osaka airport waiting for the supergenkicamwhoreadventure to begin!!
We were met by Stephanie's mom Mary in Dublin. I waited behind for a bit while Steph went to surprise her younger sister Olivia (who had no idea we were coming!) I watched from a distance and not gonna lie...got a little teary eyed from the whole magic of Christmas moment! The four of us then took a four hour bus ride across the country to Galway! Even though it was pitch black outside I still had my nose pressed against the window, staring intently at all the passing cottages and small towns and fields. I couldn't believe I was finally there!! We spent the night at a hotel in the city and went shopping the next day. my first encounter with tthe famous Tesco. After living in Japan where they mostly have small single serving packages of everything, I was APPALLED at the size of EVERYTHING and the amount of everything! Not to mention I felt an overwhelming sense of relief when I could read the labels and packaging haha. It was so nice not to have a language barrier.
Stephanie's mom had more surprises for her extended family planned. In the evening we went to this gorgeous old house where her grandparents live. Steph suprised everyone and handed out gifts from Japan, we ate scrumptious and hearty food, played with her little cousins, and really got into the Christmas spirit. The entire Joyce family was so warm and welcoming, I couldn't believe how lucky I was to be there, and it had only been one day!
Later we went to surprise Stephanie's maternal grandparents, who were equally as lovely and soooo funny! like, I want to adopt them as my own Irish grandparents!! (I never knew mine)
Then we went back to Clifden Stephanie's cute hometown, and went to sleep in her amazing house/guesthouse, the beautiful and cozy Connemara Country Lodge http://www.connemaracountrylodge.com/ SUCH A COOL HOUSE OMGGGGGG I couldn't get over how amazing it was! The next morning was Christmas Eve! I woke up freakishly early and went for a walk through the countryside Then I went back and ate my first hearty "Irish Fry!" pudding (I prefer the white), sausage, egg, and bacon (which I don't like in America but this kind of bacon was delicious!! I miss these breakfasts...I still think of them often.
The whole day was pretty relaxing, we went shopping for Christmas dinner, had some people come to the house, and just had fun getting in the Christmas spirit!
We all woke up early on Christmas day to open presents! They were so nice and even got me some too!! the aftermath ahha it was really fun!!
Then we scrambled to get ready for a real Irish mass with a real Irish priest with a real Irish accent in a real Irish church!! It was like something out of the movies!! Apparently I forgot how to be Catholic and absolutely horrified Stephanie when I turned to her and shouted "Merry Christmas!" instead of "peace be with you" near the end. But it was cool, I hadn't been to church for two years and the priest's sermon about living through hard times was really nice. I love old churches!
After mass we went back home for some tea then started preparing christmas dinner! the Deignan family story has come full circle--grandparents fled from peeling potatoes, and here I am, peeling some back in the old country HAHA It was really fun preparing though, we sang and danced to Christmas music in the kitchen Stephanie, her mom and sister are beautiful singers! They each sang some traditional Irish ballads for me too!
After preparing dinner, it was camwhore time!
steph's house was the perfect setting for a photoshoot! a very good looking guy took this for us.
sorry I just couldn't resist the pull of the camwhore disease in such an awesome setting!
The inside of the house was just as cool! After watching a "Doctor Who" special on the BBC and parts of the Queens' speech, it was finally time for the big dinner! the stunning setup with our prawn cocktail appetizer My first Christmas crackers!! Every non-American I meet is surprised we don't practice this ritual! I like it!! You get a crown and a little gift and a joke! the glorious meal! It was soooo good to have a real, hearty and delicious homecooked meal
On St. Stephen's Day (the day after xmas) Steph and I met up with some of her lovely friends and spent a fun afternoon in a pub chatting. I got a chance to see more of cute little Clifden! at the Esso gas station I "topped up" a cell phone and bought Club Orange
The next day Stephanie's mom took me for the most amazing tour of my life--through the Connemara countryside!! Everything about the land just took my breath away. The landscape was so sweeping and grand and magical...it was the Ireland of my dreams and better! I feel so proud to claim this land as part of my ancestral home!!! I felt it the same when standing on top of the Great Wall of China...I just felt it in my bones, like I was home. My grandparent's sailed over that ocean years ago for New York. Crazy. Peter O'Toole is from this area too!
I was overflowing with emotions and thoughts...this place is just so beautiful! I felt inspired to write, write anything! music, poetry, a novel...now I understand why there are so many sad ballads about missing Ireland haha
Ireland is unreal man Mary, Stephanie's mom who took me in, fed me, and treated me like her own daughter! Such a wonderful lady! This was at the beach at Renvyle, where James Joyce used to come vacation! the road to Renvyle I kid you not, this is where Stephanie went to school!
Stephanie's aunt Grace offered to let us spend the night at her beautiful townhouse in Galway city, which was perfect because I was about to set off on my own journey the next day! So we all drove into Galway and Stephanie showed me around the city she adores Galway bay! Stephanie's uni!
the main thoroughfare with good shopping! HAHAHA globalization! Stephanie and I thought this was hilarious haha. The weird thing is, I didn't miss Japan at all, probably because I was on vacation, but yeah, I didn't feel nostalgic or anything. Guess I was having too much fun! This was just too cute Steph said a nice prayer for us For dinner we met up with her Aunt Tessie and Olivia and ate at Eddie Rockets, an American diner! yeah...I don't miss America yet lol After we watched "Australia," which I had never heard of but was AMAZINGGGGG and watching Hugh Jackman as an Aussie cowboy was just...perfection *swoons*
Finding me roots Reeeeeallly early the next morning Tessie and Steph took me to the bus station where I was to embark on a very interesting journey on my own. The bus ride was really fun actually--I adore watching the passing countryside outside a bus, and everything was covered in beautiful white snow. Everything just looked so soft and magical, like out of a storybook!
My first destination was Ballinamore, the tiny village my grandfather left! Mary was nice enough to call up her friend Mr. Gallagher, who picked me up at the station and drove me around the town! such a nice man! I can't believe how kind he was to take me--a perfect stranger--around his town. It's a really cute little town! Not at all piss and/backwater like everyone was telling me it was going to be!! AAAHHHHHH ITS MY LAST NAAAAAAMMMEEEE in a PUBLIC PLAACCEEE!!! omfgeee (this is how it was spelled originally--my grandpa had to change it when he got to Ellis Island to Deignan) See, everywhere I go, people comment on how unusual my last name is. It's not very common, and Joe and were always the only Deignans in school. So, to see my last name (albeit in it's original form) on facing out on the main street of this town, I just felt like I had finally found the place that I didn't have to feel weird about my name! I guess there are lots of Deignans still living there!! It's just a really nice feeling to know that we're not alone, that there are more of us out there. This is the bridge where my great grandfather once had a shop and a house. He went to California for a while to cut down redwood/sequoia trees before going back and marrying a nurse haha. Then his son left for New York. Then his son moved to California. Then his daughter moved to Japan, and then went back to Ireland for a bit HAHA yay for the circle of life. needless to say, I was pretty freakin excited to be at the spot where my ancestors once lived!!! Too bad they tore down the shop and house
So before I left for Ireland, my dad gave me the name of a woman who was still living in Ballinamore who knew my grandparents, a Mrs. Geoghegan. Mr. Gallagher somehow knew her, and took me to her house. We just knocked on the front door and he said, "Mrs. Geoghegan, this girl says she's related to you!" and then a whole houseful of people welcomed me in and we sat down and tried to figure out our family tree and how we were related! I was like...wait isn't this weird? and my young newfound cousin Chris said, "nah, this is Ireland, it happens all the time!" They were all so nice and I couldn't believe this was actually happening! and what good luck that the whole family was there for the holidays! They showed me some old photos We exchanged info, tried to figure out the relations...but we couldn't get it straight down pat. But we do know that there is a link somehow haha and that we're all distant cousins of some sort! I couldn't believe my luck! I had come to Ireland, one of many Americans "searchin fer me roots" and I FOUND THEM!!! I FREAKING FOUND MY ROOTS!! I felt on top of the world! A lifelong goal to come to Ballinamore had come true, and on top of that, I even met living relatives!! This whole experience was just mindblowing.
After all the excitement, we went to Mr. Gallagher's wealthy brother's mansion...where there's a helicopter pad in the front yard...and had afternoon tea. Really crazy haha. Apparently his brother has a horse out in California that he races, but he has to go back to England or something cuz that's where he really lives.
This whole experience just left me floating...like nothing felt real. Everything was just too good to be true! And I was really touched by the kindness of everyone for just welcoming me and helping me out. Makes me really believe in the good of humanity, ya know?
In the evening I took another bus to Donegal town up in Northern Ireland, where I could barely understand a word anyone said...and some people didn't understand me either! It was interesting going through Northern Ireland, the buildings and the farms are a bit different. A bit more English, but still cute and pretty. it's an ancient and very cute city. I was only there for about an hour to wait for my next bus to Letterkenny, where I would visit my friend Enda (another JET.) Enda and his girlfriend Masae! They're my favorite couple in the world!!! Enda's family is really cool. He has four brothers and really funny parents!! Enda is now my Irish "brudder," and he teases me like I'm his Irish sister lol. The first night we hung out his friend's house to watch a football match, the next day we went shopping in town, then just chilled the rest of the day/night. It was a nice little respite between adventures!
On New Year's Eve I took yet another bus across Northern Ireland. I had lunch in Derry before catching another bus to the airport in Belfast. The Guildhall. I really liked the architecture in Northern Ireland. Derry was a nice town, hard to believe just recently it was the scene of "the Troubles." Glad it's over!
Sadly I didn't get to see Belfast, but that just means I'll have to go back! I flew to London and spent a few days there, but that is a story for another post!
A week later I flew back to Galway where Stephanie cheerfully greeted me. It was so nice to have such a warm welcome! The somewhat cold nature of the big city of London made me really appreciate warm Irish hospitality even more! We had breakfast at this really cool old pub where the waiter laughed when I asked him to put Baileys into my hot chocolate, but I was confused because I thought in Ireland that should be normal! HAHA guess not. I told them to name the drink after me :-p We met up with another of Stephanie's awesome friends, then spent the day last minute shopping, because we're kinda deprived in Japan when it comes to clothes and shoes that fit us haha. The next day, our last day *sniffs* was spent frantically packing, then heading back to Aunt Grace's house for a great farewell dinner with the whole family in Grace's gorgeous townhouse in "The Nurseries," a really posh neighborhood in Galway. The most wonderful people, all of them. They were so good to me and I'm so thankful for the way they treated me like family. I'm so thankful for Stephanie, her mom, sister, and entire extended family for giving me such a wonderful opportunity to spend the holidays with them and learn about their (and my!) culture. I finally feel like I understand my other, sometimes (in recent years) forgotten half. Though I know I can't claim to be truly "Irish," I still feel a special affinity with my Irish American heritage, and after being there, I feel even closer to it. Stephanie's grandparents even said that I seemed quite Irish to them! Something about my manner/humor haha. Also, my first and last names, my hair, my cheekbones/forehead.
The search for identity is an ongoing process, but I like to think that after this trip, part of my journey is finally over. I have now been to China, Ireland, Wales, and Scotland, all the countries I have blood ties to, and I now know where I come from. Now I finally have a little glimpse into what my unknown Irish grandparents may have been like too. I now have one more country to which I feel I can belong. I think that the "big lesson" I learned from this trip was that there are really good peole in this world--and when you treat other people with kindness and warmth, they in turn want to do the same. I also really learned how important it is to treat everyone like they're family even if they're a total stranger. I guess this trip just reinforced the lesson I learned in China...life is about other people. Without close relationships with people...life just kinda sucks, so it's worth it to put in the effort into maintaining ties with people who matter.
So, I found my roots, but more importantly, I in a way "planted" new ones. I most definitely will be returning several times in my life, hopefully with my own family in tow haha. I'd even love to live there for a while one day. Out of all 18 countries I've had the privilege of visiting, Ireland is hands down the most beautiful, warm, and welcoming country of all.
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